Paths & Paws
Ticks transmit Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, ehrlichiosis, and other serious illnesses. Transmission usually takes 24-48 hours of attachment. A thorough post-hike check gives you the window to remove ticks before they cause harm.
Most dog owners do casual tick checks. They run their hands over the obvious areas and call it done. This misses the ticks hiding in the spots dogs can't scratch and owners don't think to look.
Key Takeaways
- 1Systematic checking catches what casual glances miss
- 2Ticks prefer warm, hidden areas with thin skin
- 3Remove embedded ticks within 24 hours to reduce disease transmission
- 4Make tick checks part of post-hike routine, not occasional
Why Systematic Matters
Ticks don't attach randomly. They seek warm areas where skin is thin and blood flow is accessible. They also prefer spots your dog can't easily groom.
This means ticks cluster in predictable locations. A systematic check covers these spots in order, ensuring you don't skip the high-probability areas.
Casual checking usually involves running hands over the back and sides. That's where you're least likely to find ticks. The real hiding spots require deliberate attention.
The 5-Minute Method
Work through these areas in order. Using the same sequence every time builds habit and ensures completeness.
1. Head (60 seconds)
Start at the muzzle. Feel around the lips and chin. Ticks lodge in lip folds and under the jaw.
Move to the ears. Check inside each ear flap, around the ear opening, and behind the ears where skull meets ear base. This is prime tick territory.
Feel around the eyes and eyebrows. Check the forehead and top of head, parting fur to see skin.
2. Neck and Collar Area (30 seconds)
Remove the collar completely. Ticks hide under collars where they're protected from grooming. Feel all around the neck, pressing through fur to skin.
Check under the chin and along the throat. Feel down the front of the chest.
3. Front Legs and Armpits (45 seconds)
Start at the shoulder. Work down each front leg, feeling around joints where skin folds.
The armpit area is critical. Lift each front leg and feel the entire armpit zone. Skin is thin here, and dogs can't reach it with their mouths. Ticks thrive in armpits.
Check between toes and around foot pads. Ticks embed between toes where they're hard to see.
4. Back and Sides (30 seconds)
Run hands along the spine, pressing through fur. Continue down both sides.
This is where most people check exclusively. Don't spend extra time here at the expense of other areas.
5. Belly and Groin (60 seconds)
Have your dog lie on their back or side. Feel the entire belly, pressing through fur.
Check the groin area thoroughly. Like armpits, groin has thin skin and warmth that ticks prefer. Dogs can't groom this area well on their own.
6. Rear Legs and Hindquarters (45 seconds)
Feel down each rear leg from hip to foot. Check around knee joints and hock joints.
Feel the inner thighs where skin is thin. Check between rear toes.
7. Tail and Rear (30 seconds)
Feel along the tail from base to tip. Check under the tail and around the anus. This is uncomfortable to check but ticks don't care about dignity.
Use Good Light
Tick checks work better in bright light where you can see skin through parted fur. If you're doing checks at the trailhead, use your phone flashlight for dark-furred dogs.
What You're Feeling For
Embedded ticks feel like small bumps on skin. Early-stage attached ticks might be as small as a sesame seed. Engorged ticks can be as large as a grape.
Run fingertips against the direction of hair growth. This lifts fur and makes bumps more noticeable.
When you feel something unusual, part the fur to look. Ticks have visible legs and are attached by their mouthparts.
Don't confuse ticks with other bumps you might feel.
- Skin tags (soft, same color as skin)
- Nipples (evenly spaced, consistent location)
- Scabs (flat, crusty)
- Moles (flat or raised but uniform color)
Ticks have distinct bodies with legs visible at the attachment point.
Removing Embedded Ticks
When you find one, remove it properly.
Use fine-tipped tweezers or a tick removal tool. Grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible and pull straight up with steady pressure. Don't twist, jerk, or squeeze the body.
Avoid folk remedies like petroleum jelly, nail polish, heat from a match, or alcohol applied while the tick is still attached. These don't work and may cause the tick to release more saliva into the wound.
After removal, clean the bite site with rubbing alcohol or soap. Save the tick in a sealed container if possible for identification should symptoms develop later. Monitor the site for a developing rash over the following days. Note the date and location on your dog's body in case you need to report it to your vet.
Mouthparts Stuck?
If the head remains embedded after removal, don't dig for it. The body with disease-carrying components is gone. The mouthparts will work out naturally or be absorbed. Digging causes more damage than leaving them.
When to Check
Primary Check: Immediately After Hike
Do your thorough 5-minute check right after hiking, before getting in the car if possible. Ticks picked up on trail are easier to find before they migrate to their preferred spots.
Secondary Check: Evening
Ticks continue moving after initial attachment isn't satisfactory. A second check several hours later catches ticks that relocated.
Daily Checks in Tick Season
During peak tick season (spring through fall in most areas), do a quick check daily even on non-hiking days. Dogs pick up ticks in yards, parks, and neighborhood walks.
High-Risk Dogs
Some dogs face higher tick exposure than others.
Long-coated breeds present a challenge because dense fur hides ticks and makes thorough checks harder. Consider keeping coats shorter during tick season to improve your odds of finding attached ticks.
Low-riding breeds contact tick habitat more directly. Dogs close to the ground walk through tall grass and leaf litter that taller dogs pass over.
Dogs who go off-trail encounter more ticks than those who stick to cleared paths. Every crash through brush is another opportunity for tick attachment.
Geographic location matters too. The Northeast, Upper Midwest, and Pacific Coast have higher tick populations than other regions.
Adjust your checking rigor based on your dog's risk level.
Making It Routine
The best tick check routine is one you actually do. Here's how to build the habit.
Tie tick checks to an existing behavior. Check while your dog eats dinner or right before the evening walk. Anchoring to existing habits improves consistency because you don't have to remember a separate task.
Keep supplies accessible. Have tweezers and rubbing alcohol in a consistent spot so you're always ready if you find something. Fumbling around looking for tools wastes time and reduces the likelihood you'll complete thorough checks.
Track your findings. A note in your phone about when and where you found ticks helps identify high-risk trails or seasonal patterns over time.
Reward your dog. Tick checks require handling sensitive areas like groin and armpits. Make it worth their while with treats. A positive association keeps dogs cooperative through the entire process.
When to Call the Vet
Most tick bites don't require veterinary attention. Contact your vet if you notice any of these warning signs.
- Multiple ticks (5+ embedded)
- Signs of infection at the bite site (swelling, pus, spreading redness)
- Lethargy, fever, joint pain, or loss of appetite in weeks following a bite
- Expanding circular rash around the bite
Early treatment for tick-borne diseases is more effective than late treatment. When in doubt, call.
Frequently Asked Questions
Dr. Jennifer Coates, DVM, brings 25+ years of clinical experience to Paths & Paws. Based in Fort Collins, Colorado, she specializes in preventive medicine and evidence-based nutrition for active dogs.